NZGuitars.com : Filling you with GAS since 2003

The neck is a chunk of 1/4 sawn matai with some carbon fiber rods as well as the truss rod for support. And yeah, that fretboard material is pretty cool! And while I didn't have much of an amplified play with it, the pickups are awesome - well done Mr Glyn!

@Grant, do you have a logo or decals? Was thinking of getting one made for the Gretschecaster. No, I've not done anything for guitars. I think Reg was looking at something for a LP junior that I built that he was considering for a while, but we didn't get any further! How's the paint coming along? ...

A guy in Los Angeles does them. They cost me $7 a piece which is steep for a bit of paper but they really finish the job. Did you try checking the prices from Rothko and Frost - UK based. @Grant, do you have a logo or decals? Was thinking of getting one made for the Gretschecaster. No, I've not don...

Love it! But I might observe that Americans won't be able to pronounce Aotearoa much less comprehend what it means. "Noo Zeelund? What's that and what happened to the old one?" :rofl: Or my experience of travelling in the US. "Noo Zeelund? What state is that in?" Back on topic, ...

That's an awesome looking blue finish you've done there!! Assuming all in nitro is it?

I put a Zebrawood fretboard on a RG7620 neck, so it is possible If you don't have the tools required it might be cheaper to pay someone or find a replacement neck 1377002_451542531631716_218668457_n.jpg No zebras were harmed in the making of this fretboard? Like the monkey grip! Any finished pics?

Patience is required to get the glue nice and soft before using the spatula, otherwise you can damage the neck wood, which means more work to tidy up. Does the board need to come off? Can't repair it?

As long as you appreciate not all "pine" is created equal. Stuff grown here is usually a lot less dense than many species grown in the colder climates of e.g. North America due to it growing a lot quicker. But agree, head to your nearest timber suppliers and see what they have.

He's using a nitrocellulose finish isn't he? Yes he is - the product is PPG Speedlac 262 nitrocellulose lacquer (thanks Rob for naming it). But it caused me to briefly stare into the rabbit hole of old verses modern nitro and I'm staying clear of that one... I haven't sprayed it with enough skill t...

MikeC wrote: ↑Tue Aug 02, 2022 9:32 pm He's using a lacquer from PPG and I'm gonna find out what it actually is. Thanks for raising it because I do want nitrocellulose lacquer for the way it ages.

Turn your blonde blonder? Nice!

He's using a nitrocellulose finish isn't he?

Nothing wrong with brown ebony, they used to let them rot when they found the tree wasn't black enough... But why would you stain it? I have have some pitch black ebony which is more than 60 years old. Will be used for some special builds. I also have some streaky ebony which I bought a few years a...

Bg wrote: ↑Wed Jul 27, 2022 5:05 pm No I meant filing, typo....

Or cut the tang back a little, install, and then as you say fill the slot with dust and CA etc.

Nothing wrong with brown ebony, they used to let them rot when they found the tree wasn't black enough... But why would you stain it? I have have some pitch black ebony which is more than 60 years old. Will be used for some special builds. I also have some streaky ebony which I bought a few years a...

Yep totara body with rimu top. So you redoing the colour top? I started off using a preval sprayer at first - same thing with a pile of orange peel. Getting a spray gun helped a lot - still some orange peel, but less. Flat sanding towards the end of the spraying process helps as well.