how to make your own PCBs
Posted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 11:59 am
just typed this out for someone else, but thought it may be of interest to others too.. lemme know if you think I've missed/forgotten something.
here's the deal:
+find the layout you want and print it to normal a4 paper using a laserjet printer (not inkjet).
+take one musicworks pamphlet.. the paper they use is glossy (the toner will come away more easily), but disintegrates easily; cut out some pamphlet paper larger than the pcb on the white page and use magic tape (that invisible stuff like scotch - it goes through the printer again without getting stuck to the insides usually - can handle the heat) to tape it over the layout on that original piece of paper, then use the laserjet again to print over the top.. this will put the layout onto the musicworks pamphlet.
+cut the musicworks pamphlet paper away from the original white; face up poke 'breather' holes with a needle in the paper
+clean (with IPA) then heat (with an iron - set to almost full heat, just under a smidge) a piece of PCB (cut to about the size of the PCB you want to end up with, maybe a lil larger, but you can file that off after) before applying the musicworks paper layout. this heats the copper and makes the toner 'want' to transfer to it more
+apply the musicworks paper layout (toner facing down) and position it using your eye-o-meter then put the iron on top of that and lean the bageesus onto it (climb on if you can)..
+leave it on there for 5-10 mins. and every so often iron the crap out of it (use the edge of the iron if you want, but try not to rip the paper) - especially the edges.. it will discolour slightly.
+when you're done there, drop the pcb in water to cool for handling, then into the freezer for 10 mins... (shrinks the copper more and makes the toner stick to it).
+to remove the musicworks paper layout, keep water running over the board as you rub away the paper.. not too gentle, but not too crazy.
you may need to fill in some tracks (match it up against the layout on the original, but remember it'll be reversed) but using this method I've had better transfers and etching than using p'n'p (at $8/page!!)
if you screw up.. just don't etch it.. no biggie.. plenty more musicworks paper in the mail.. just start from scratch.. it takes a few goes, but this is the best method I've tried.
for etching:
I have 2X plastic takeaway containers a larger and a smaller.
in the larger I put an XLO cloth and then boiling water from the kettle.. then I drop the smaller in that (kinda like poaching, or melting chocolate styles), then in to the smaller one goes some Ferric Chloride... this stuff is super stainy and eats metal so wear gloves and don't tip it all over your stainless steel kitchen bench (like I did :facepalm:).
leave the PCB in there for anywhere from 5 - 25 minutes (depending on how strong your etchant mixture is - you can reuse ferric chloride - I keep mine in a glass coke bottle and reuse it till it's basically black, but then it takes AGES to etch - handy for etching graphics in alu enclusres still at that stage though- waste not/want not).
you can swish the etchant about by moving the smaller container back and forth - this speeds up the etching process.. once all that you have left on the board is the black toner (covering/protecting the copper) then run under water to get rid of the etchant (I leave mine running for a while out of paranoia of etching my copper pipes - unrealistic, but I do it anyway).
scour away the toner with a plastic green kitchen scrubber thingy + IPA...
drill the holes with a 0.8mm drillbit (get a 10 pack from jaycar cos they break a lot - in order to make mine last longer, I shorten them by snapping in half so only a lil bit sticks out of the chuck)..
booya! you gots a PCB.
here's the deal:
+find the layout you want and print it to normal a4 paper using a laserjet printer (not inkjet).
+take one musicworks pamphlet.. the paper they use is glossy (the toner will come away more easily), but disintegrates easily; cut out some pamphlet paper larger than the pcb on the white page and use magic tape (that invisible stuff like scotch - it goes through the printer again without getting stuck to the insides usually - can handle the heat) to tape it over the layout on that original piece of paper, then use the laserjet again to print over the top.. this will put the layout onto the musicworks pamphlet.
+cut the musicworks pamphlet paper away from the original white; face up poke 'breather' holes with a needle in the paper
+clean (with IPA) then heat (with an iron - set to almost full heat, just under a smidge) a piece of PCB (cut to about the size of the PCB you want to end up with, maybe a lil larger, but you can file that off after) before applying the musicworks paper layout. this heats the copper and makes the toner 'want' to transfer to it more
+apply the musicworks paper layout (toner facing down) and position it using your eye-o-meter then put the iron on top of that and lean the bageesus onto it (climb on if you can)..
+leave it on there for 5-10 mins. and every so often iron the crap out of it (use the edge of the iron if you want, but try not to rip the paper) - especially the edges.. it will discolour slightly.
+when you're done there, drop the pcb in water to cool for handling, then into the freezer for 10 mins... (shrinks the copper more and makes the toner stick to it).
+to remove the musicworks paper layout, keep water running over the board as you rub away the paper.. not too gentle, but not too crazy.
you may need to fill in some tracks (match it up against the layout on the original, but remember it'll be reversed) but using this method I've had better transfers and etching than using p'n'p (at $8/page!!)
if you screw up.. just don't etch it.. no biggie.. plenty more musicworks paper in the mail.. just start from scratch.. it takes a few goes, but this is the best method I've tried.
for etching:
I have 2X plastic takeaway containers a larger and a smaller.
in the larger I put an XLO cloth and then boiling water from the kettle.. then I drop the smaller in that (kinda like poaching, or melting chocolate styles), then in to the smaller one goes some Ferric Chloride... this stuff is super stainy and eats metal so wear gloves and don't tip it all over your stainless steel kitchen bench (like I did :facepalm:).
leave the PCB in there for anywhere from 5 - 25 minutes (depending on how strong your etchant mixture is - you can reuse ferric chloride - I keep mine in a glass coke bottle and reuse it till it's basically black, but then it takes AGES to etch - handy for etching graphics in alu enclusres still at that stage though- waste not/want not).
you can swish the etchant about by moving the smaller container back and forth - this speeds up the etching process.. once all that you have left on the board is the black toner (covering/protecting the copper) then run under water to get rid of the etchant (I leave mine running for a while out of paranoia of etching my copper pipes - unrealistic, but I do it anyway).
scour away the toner with a plastic green kitchen scrubber thingy + IPA...
drill the holes with a 0.8mm drillbit (get a 10 pack from jaycar cos they break a lot - in order to make mine last longer, I shorten them by snapping in half so only a lil bit sticks out of the chuck)..
booya! you gots a PCB.