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Right, after my Orange Dual Terror sells on Tard me, im ordering a Ceriatone Prinzetone , ive talked to nik and it seems pretty perfect.

Im just buying the chassis cuz i dont have enough money for the head haha. Im planning on building a 2x10 Combo for it and i have some questions.
Ill just be using Radiata Pine from my school, Ill be gluing pieces together to make the different sides, is this okay?

Also im looking at using the Jensen P10R for my speakers.
Im thinking of building it to Avatar Traditional 2x10 dimensions, and mounting the chassis on the back like a HRD. Will i have any problems with this?
Also where can i get some Blonde Tolex ?

Cheers guys.

I'd dovetail the cab if I was building it and if I knew how do dovetails.

Ears wrote:I'd dovetail the cab if I was building it and if I knew how do dovetails.

this...

Pine is a great choice for the cab and butt joints are quite strong when cut accurately.
I also add 30mm screws and internal corner brace blocks although if you have a brad gun that is great.
The screws need to be countersunk to allow corners to be radiused with a router.
The screw holes can be filled before tolex is applied. (bog)
The speaker baffle should be good plywood screwed (not glued)into cleats.
Lots of parts/ tolex here:

http://evatco.com .au/D.I.Y.%20components.htm#TOLEX
Good luck with your project.

rocklander wrote:

Ears wrote:I'd dovetail the cab if I was building it and if I knew how do dovetails.

this...

I have a buddy with one of these: http://www.topmaq.co.nz/product_detail.aspx?id=WWDO1100 works like magic!!

Anvil Amps Alan wrote:Pine is a great choice for the cab and butt joints are quite strong when cut accurately.
I also add 30mm screws and internal corner brace blocks although if you have a brad gun that is great.
The screws need to be countersunk to allow corners to be radiused with a router.
The screw holes can be filled before tolex is applied. (bog)
The speaker baffle should be good plywood screwed (not glued)into cleats.
Lots of parts/ tolex here:

http://evatco.com.au/D.I.Y.%20components.htm#TOLEX
Good luck with your project.

with you on the butt joints and screwed/glued - more than strong enough, if you want to go OTT use Finger joints as they're easier to cut by hand - or splash out $99 on a dovetail routing jig if you plan to cut many.

For a fender style cab you want the baffle to be floating at the sides and screwed top and bottom. Ply is good enough, in fact I've used Ply for a whole fender style cab, and IMO it makes no difference tonally whatsoever. And its stronger, and not likely to warp.

Tolex, contact Ryan as he is a forum sponsor and will cut you a great deal no doubt.... Custom Audio Boutique.

Be a proper Kiwi and use a beer crate

Just to let all of you know, i will be Dovetailing all joints. When i said gluing the wood together , i meant for the sides and not for the actual 90 degree joints.
Started cutting wood today. will start the Dovetails this arvo. They will be stopped dovetails and glued with Strong PVA.
Cheers guys.
Ive also decided on the Jensen P10R in a 2x10 format. I have done some designs, do you want me to post them ?

The P10R is a fantastic speaker. I can only imagine that several of them sound even better. Go ahead and post those designs and some pictures as you progress too.

Post em up dude, quite interested!!

K , ill post them once i get home. Its loosely based on an Avatar Traditional 2x10 but i made it a little bigger and some other changes. Its a big one aswell at 63.5x30x50.8 .

Speaker Baffle


Back


Front


Side


Top

Looks fantastic. I like the design. The only question I have is to do with the speaker mounting positions. For the shown position of the mounting screws there may be an overlap of the speaker flange.

You could scribe the outside diameter on your drawing to ensure they don't touch.

Perhaps you have already done this. Apologies if you have.

Rob

I havent marked out exactly where the speakers will go as i dont know their exact size . when i actually cut the holes i'll make sure that it doesnt overlap.

Looks awesome dude, i've been thinking of a similarily staggered combo myself, looking forward to seeing the progress