Applying solder to amp. chassis for grounding ?

[Dr. DeSoto]

Can anybody who's done this offer me some advice please ?

My soldering station works more than adequately for every task I ask of it. It doesn't however, have the horsepower that I need for this application. I'm very reluctant to spring for another soldering iron but, it sounds to me as though a butane torch might be what I need.

And, is it simply a matter of getting the aluminium hot enough and lobbing on some Cardas Eutectic solder ? Or should I use no - lead ? I'm sure I read somewhere that leaded solder wont work.

Any advice / tips would be hugely appreciated.

Thanks,

Gary.

[AmpShop]

Hey Gary,

If you're going to make chassis grounds with an iron, you'll need at least 100w - I think 135w is a standard?

Personally, I don't recommend it, even though there are plenty of old amps that did it (and repros such as Victoria) - instead, use a terminal lug (with "teeth") bolted to the chassis for a connection that'll be reliable in the long run.

[Dr. DeSoto]

Thanks Ryan.

I'm building this amp. for a friend who's sold on one expert point of view that a lug and bolt is not a proper grounding arrangement.

Personally, I'm happy to follow the other experts who say that a bolted lug will work just fine if properly executed !!

[Anvil Amps Alan]

Hi Gary,
If the chassis is Aluminium it is therefore an excellent conductor of heat as well as electricity
it is not the accepted practice to solder connections to it.
You would need a massive iron to get it hot enough.
Aluminium can be soldered but is is quite difficult to get the solder to wet (tin) the surface.

If your chassis is painted, sand all paint away where your connection is required and bolt a solder lug
or tag strip to it with star washers.
Make sure the bolt is as tight as you can get it.

[Rog]

I agree entirely with the above professionals. Clean/bolt/nut/starwashers/solder tag is the best way to go with aluminium.

[Dr. DeSoto]

Thanks for your good advice guys, I appreciate it.

[tubeswell]

And for the mains safety ground bolt connection to the chassis, use a nylock nut or similar. (I use locking nuts on all the chassis grounding points FWIW)