Jazzmaster 2016 build
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- jeremyb
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Re: Jazzmaster 2016 build
Looking really 3d now! I think you'll know when you're done when it feels smooth enough? no idea how else to tell
Slowy wrote: That's the problem; everything rewarding is just such hard work. Regret takes much less effort.
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Re: Jazzmaster 2016 build
when its dull with no shiney spots - then its flat.jeremyb wrote:Looking really 3d now! I think you'll know when you're done when it feels smooth enough? no idea how else to tell
- SimpleSi
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Re: Jazzmaster 2016 build
I've ordered some of the 3M pads Molly mentioned. Assuming their grit is true to the number?Lostininverness wrote:The micromesh pad numbers do not match the same for the wet/dry. So for the 1500 micromesh that says its the same coarseness as 600, it means its the same as 600 wet/dry. On the video (which is an excellent series) he starts with 1500 wet/dry as he has already effectivly flattened the finish as he went, so he can start at a higher grit.
With your's, you've got some orange peel there to deal with, and if you start with 1500 wet/dry, you might be there for a while. I've done one body which probably had a similar amount of peel before, and started with 600 (or 1500 micromesh as suggested by Molly).
As willow suggests, start on the back, maybe start higher than 600 wet/dry, and take it slow. If it starts to look a bit dodgy, you can always sray on another few coats. Good luck.
The amount of Orange peel is because of the glitter too - so there was no way to avoid it.
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- SimpleSi
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Re: Jazzmaster 2016 build
Quick question - how accurate to 25.5" do I need to be from Nut to "g-string" saddle.
Butted hard up against the neck and pickguard etc, I get nearly 26" to the g-string on the bridge saddles.
I'm assuming I can just buy these:
http://www.guitarparts.co.nz/screws-and ... steel.html
to put in this :
http://www.guitarparts.co.nz/bridges-ta ... hrome.html
to make the saddles reach in closer?
Butted hard up against the neck and pickguard etc, I get nearly 26" to the g-string on the bridge saddles.
I'm assuming I can just buy these:
http://www.guitarparts.co.nz/screws-and ... steel.html
to put in this :
http://www.guitarparts.co.nz/bridges-ta ... hrome.html
to make the saddles reach in closer?
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Guitars: Duesenberg Julia, DIY Duesenberg Walnut Caribou, DIY Custom Strat, Duesenberg Tom Bukovac Session man Starplayer TV, PRS SE Silver Sky, Maton ECW80C Acoustic, Duesenberg Paloma
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- SimpleSi
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Re: Jazzmaster 2016 build
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Re: Jazzmaster 2016 build
the bass screws look to be a different diameter and thread pitch to the guitar ones listed on the same site (#6-32 vs #4-40). So they are unlikely to fit - someone else might be able to confirm. Not sure where you live, but if you go to a place like Blacks Fasteners here in Christchurch, they might have something suitable.
the other thing to consider is moving the saddles that far forward, the break angle from the holes to saddle is tighter than the average - maybe look at "rounding" out the holes on the base?
the other thing to consider is moving the saddles that far forward, the break angle from the holes to saddle is tighter than the average - maybe look at "rounding" out the holes on the base?
- jeremyb
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Re: Jazzmaster 2016 build
Route a lot in the pickguard to move it forward
Slowy wrote: That's the problem; everything rewarding is just such hard work. Regret takes much less effort.
- olegmcnoleg
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Re: Jazzmaster 2016 build
I think Jeremy is right, you need the bridge slightly forward, it doesn't look like you have enough travel left in your saddles, with longer screws you would extend beyond the grooves in the bridge plate--not optimal.
- SimpleSi
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Re: Jazzmaster 2016 build
I stopped by Keith McMillan today, showed him and asked advice. Instead of going exactly 25.5" he just did what I should have, and doubled the 12th fret measurement.
Means the bridge will actually be OK roughly where it is in the photo. Phew.
Means the bridge will actually be OK roughly where it is in the photo. Phew.
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- SimpleSi
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Re: Jazzmaster 2016 build
According to warmoth 25.5..Lostininverness wrote:so what scale length neck do you have then?
324/325mm to 12th fret
edit: which makes it 25.5"
Keith measured from the high e slot to the High e saddle and used that for 25.5 - I was using the G
He said that using the high e is more accurate when putting a new bridge on.
I've read that in other forums while scouring the internet for advice too. Keith has been making guitars etc for many many years so I'd trust his advice.
He even said that I put the neck on dead straight! Bingo Bango bongo!
I'm currently in the process of repairing some chipped out Poly on the back with a paint on poly, because when i drilled out the ferrules on the back it chipped - Should've drilled them first.. but I had totally forgotten and realised this when i started clear coating already.
it means it'll look like shite on the back of the guitar but end of the day - it'll get all belt rashed etc in a couple years anyhow..
Just filling it with Poly now so i doesn't lift anymore, I've used a scalpel to cut the lifted part away.
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Guitars: Duesenberg Julia, DIY Duesenberg Walnut Caribou, DIY Custom Strat, Duesenberg Tom Bukovac Session man Starplayer TV, PRS SE Silver Sky, Maton ECW80C Acoustic, Duesenberg Paloma
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- GrantB
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Re: Jazzmaster 2016 build
Measuring from high E 25.5" is correct, but just make sure you haven't got more than 75% of the saddles travel already extended.
"Man is the most insane species. He worships an invisible god and destroys a visible nature. Unaware that this nature he's destroying is this god he's worshipping." - Hubert Reeves
- SimpleSi
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Re: Jazzmaster 2016 build
Done.
Taking it to Keith McMillan though - has a buzz on the higher frets I can't budge. Plus I don't have a good enough tuner for accurate intonation, so I'll just pay him for a general setup.
Pity with warmoth necks is that they clear coat over the fret bars, so you have to either polish them all, or wear them out playing. Lol
Sorry but you've just 'built' a guitar and now you're not going to set it up yourself?
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- Bg
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Re: Jazzmaster 2016 build
Polish them, it'll take 5 minutes, probably less, and the uneven lacquer will be causing the buzz. So your tuner is accurate enough for normal tuning but not for intonation - erm, please explainSimpleSi wrote:
Done.
Taking it to Keith McMillan though - has a buzz on the higher frets I can't budge. Plus I don't have a good enough tuner for accurate intonation, so I'll just pay him for a general setup.
Pity with warmoth necks is that they clear coat over the fret bars, so you have to either polish them all, or wear them out playing. Lol
So, is that low alcohol or no alcohol at all? mmmm, no alcohol, do you want to try it? Noooooooooo.