SimpleSi wrote:
As i mentioned above - how do you know when your clear is thick enough to sand
you don't really. what you do know is there will be a fairly even amount of clear on both the paint and the glitter in the paint so if you are careful you are safe to lightly sand without going through the clear. If you are starting at 1500grit or what ever it was you have very little chance of sanding to far (if you press WAY TO HARD then you might but even then you would have to be quite special to manage that).
Start on the back and press really lightly
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SimpleSi wrote:
As i mentioned above - how do you know when your clear is thick enough to sand
you don't really. what you do know is there will be a fairly even amount of clear on both the paint and the glitter in the paint so if you are careful you are safe to lightly sand without going through the clear. If you are starting at 1500grit or what ever it was you have very little chance of sanding to far (if you press WAY TO HARD then you might but even then you would have to be quite special to manage that).
what's with "Where 1500 is slightly coarser than normal 600 grit paper. "
lol?
it means its coarser than 600grit sand paper ... so if you are using those you might want to go higher
I personally would wet sand it with sand paper
Wet and Dry paper. Not sand paper.
If you go to the supplier they'll be able to offer some advice. Even take the body with you. By that I mean somewhere specialist like The Spray Store, not feckin' Repco.
SimpleSi wrote:
i'm not going to sand anything for 3 weeks - going to let the whole thing cure first. leaving it in the garage for now.
As i mentioned above - how do you know when your clear is thick enough to sand
Good plan. Let it harden properly.
The 3M pads I was thinking of are called Trizact (discs actually but I use them by hand)
the discs sound like a great idea - problem is, i can't find anyone locally that sells them - and online people only sell boxes of 25 for $90+
I'd probably assume I'd only need like 1 or 2 discs of each?
1500, 1800, 2000, 2500 and by then it's probably safe to go to polishing cloths with course and fine automotive compounds?
Edit: Local retailers ie; bunneggs and Derpit10 only go up to 2000 grit sheets of sandpaper and they're around $2 a sheet. who knew that sandpaper was such an expensive thing.. shit it's just rough paper.. lol
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SimpleSi wrote:
i'm not going to sand anything for 3 weeks - going to let the whole thing cure first. leaving it in the garage for now.
As i mentioned above - how do you know when your clear is thick enough to sand
Good plan. Let it harden properly.
The 3M pads I was thinking of are called Trizact (discs actually but I use them by hand)
the discs sound like a great idea - problem is, i can't find anyone locally that sells them - and online people only sell boxes of 25 for $90+
I'd probably assume I'd only need like 1 or 2 discs of each?
1500, 1800, 2000, 2500 and by then it's probably safe to go to polishing cloths with course and fine automotive compounds?
Edit: Local retailers ie; bunneggs and Derpit10 only go up to 2000 grit sheets of sandpaper and they're around $2 a sheet. who knew that sandpaper was such an expensive thing.. shit it's just rough paper.. lol
Look up Smits Group. They're the suppliers I believe. They'll point you in the right direction.
By the way, it pays to soak your wet and dry overnight or at least for a few hours.
Yes. I used to cut them into quarters and soak them. For the initial removal of overspray and orange peel I used to wrap wet and dry (say, 1200) around a pencil eraser to make a small rubbing block.
Starts to become clear why Nitro finished guitars are so much more expensive.
Beyond a critical point within a finite space, freedom diminishes as numbers increase. This is as true of humans as it is of gas molecules in a sealed flask. The human question is not how many can possibly survive within the system, but what kind of existence is possible for those who so survive.
The micromesh pad numbers do not match the same for the wet/dry. So for the 1500 micromesh that says its the same coarseness as 600, it means its the same as 600 wet/dry. On the video (which is an excellent series) he starts with 1500 wet/dry as he has already effectivly flattened the finish as he went, so he can start at a higher grit.
With your's, you've got some orange peel there to deal with, and if you start with 1500 wet/dry, you might be there for a while. I've done one body which probably had a similar amount of peel before, and started with 600 (or 1500 micromesh as suggested by Molly).
As willow suggests, start on the back, maybe start higher than 600 wet/dry, and take it slow. If it starts to look a bit dodgy, you can always sray on another few coats. Good luck.
... so if you are using those you might want to go higher
