Building a combo amp
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- jeremyb
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Re: Building a combo amp
Ados is the shizzle but read the instructions cause contact adhesives aren't like normal glues!!
Slowy wrote: That's the problem; everything rewarding is just such hard work. Regret takes much less effort.
- alanp
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Re: Building a combo amp
I used the F1 spray on stuff, I think.
Oh, and you can wait ten minutes for it to get tacky, or you can use a heat gun. If you do, then be warned that wherever it lands after a blast with the heatgun, it WILL want to stay there quite emphatically.
Oh, and you can wait ten minutes for it to get tacky, or you can use a heat gun. If you do, then be warned that wherever it lands after a blast with the heatgun, it WILL want to stay there quite emphatically.
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- Bg
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Re: Building a combo amp
thats why I don't use a heatgun, you want to be able to move it a bit if needed...
So, is that low alcohol or no alcohol at all? mmmm, no alcohol, do you want to try it? Noooooooooo.
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- Ashton
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Re: Building a combo amp
Okay, so for mounting it from the rear, I would need bolts not screws.. Why would that be ?
Fender Strat w/ 57/62s ---> Ceriatone Princeton w/ Jensen P10R
Well Designed, Well Made tube amp + As little controls as possible = Best Possible tone
Well Designed, Well Made tube amp + As little controls as possible = Best Possible tone
- rocklander
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Re: Building a combo amp
I used screws for mine...
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Re: Building a combo amp
There are basically two ways of mounting the speaker from the rear. The first is as BG has described where the bolts/screws for the speaker are fitted from the front of the baffle and protrude through the rear of the baffle for the speaker to mount on, held in place with some nuts. The problem with that is keeping the screws from turning, because you can't access them to hold them with a screwdriver once the baffle is covered with cloth, hence the glue.Braden-M-50 wrote:Okay, so for mounting it from the rear, I would need bolts not screws.. Why would that be ?
Another solution is 'blind nuts' or 'T-nuts'. These are basically a nut that press into the wood on the front of the baffle, held in place by little prongs to stop them spinning. You then insert the screw from the back. Either way works, and both have their pros and cons. Some people don't like the first method, as their is the possibility of destroying the speaker cone if you happen to be clumsy enough to drop the speaker onto the screws as you load it. And sometimes T-nuts aren't the most reliable method either
My recent cabinet build (built by Ash) uses the T-nuts method. Some pictures might be helpful here.
These are the T-nuts, fairly self explanatory.
Here's a pic from my cabinet showing how it all works. The screws are a bit long, should be about right once I get a washer in the back.
For either method you'll need to have a 'breaker' on the baffle, a frame around the edge that will hold the grille cloth off the screws/nuts. Like so:
Excuse the lengthy post.
- jeremyb
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Re: Building a combo amp
Wow! Very nice!
Slowy wrote: That's the problem; everything rewarding is just such hard work. Regret takes much less effort.
- bender
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Re: Building a combo amp
In before Jeremy.Braden-M-50 wrote:Okay, so for mounting it from the rear...
(Sorta)
- jeremyb
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Re: Building a combo amp
I hope you're a double adaptorbenderissimo wrote:In before Jeremy.Braden-M-50 wrote:Okay, so for mounting it from the rear...
(Sorta)
Slowy wrote: That's the problem; everything rewarding is just such hard work. Regret takes much less effort.
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- Ashton
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Re: Building a combo amp
Alright... This looks like a mission.
So im going to head to Mega and get
T Nut
Bolts
Spray on Adhesive
Need to get wood cut
Is it really that much better to rear mount?
So im going to head to Mega and get
T Nut
Bolts
Spray on Adhesive
Need to get wood cut
Is it really that much better to rear mount?
Fender Strat w/ 57/62s ---> Ceriatone Princeton w/ Jensen P10R
Well Designed, Well Made tube amp + As little controls as possible = Best Possible tone
Well Designed, Well Made tube amp + As little controls as possible = Best Possible tone
- Bg
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Re: Building a combo amp
I would say so, I don't know if you'll find T-Nuts in mega, you can try. srsly I just use normal bolts, make them a tight fit and a drop of glue and bobs your knob. Go for countersunk ones. Don't use screws as they will loosen easier over time, and if you screw them in and out a few times, the screw is likely to fall outBraden-M-50 wrote:Alright... This looks like a mission.
So im going to head to Mega and get
T Nut
Bolts
Spray on Adhesive
Need to get wood cut
Is it really that much better to rear mount?
So, is that low alcohol or no alcohol at all? mmmm, no alcohol, do you want to try it? Noooooooooo.
- ash
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Re: Building a combo amp
You don't have to use blind nuts (aka T-nuts for non-Americans). For your needs, the same screws you're already using will work fine. You can upgrade to proper bolts when you've got more time/skill/patience/money.
I do think rear-mounting the speaker is better for an open back combo. Front mounting is for enclosed/sealed cabs.
Mount them from the back and you won't have to worry about that frame on the front to lift the grille cloth off the baffle and you'll be able to tighten or swap the speakers without destroying the grille cloth. It will be much easier overall.
I do think rear-mounting the speaker is better for an open back combo. Front mounting is for enclosed/sealed cabs.
Mount them from the back and you won't have to worry about that frame on the front to lift the grille cloth off the baffle and you'll be able to tighten or swap the speakers without destroying the grille cloth. It will be much easier overall.
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- Ashton
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Re: Building a combo amp
Alright, so my wood is 12mm thick, If i just use say 15mm screws (the speaker frame is fairly off the wood) Would that be sweet?ash wrote:You don't have to use blind nuts (aka T-nuts for non-Americans). For your needs, the same screws you're already using will work fine. You can upgrade to proper bolts when you've got more time/skill/patience/money.
I do think rear-mounting the speaker is better for an open back combo. Front mounting is for enclosed/sealed cabs.
Mount them from the back and you won't have to worry about that frame on the front to lift the grille cloth off the baffle and you'll be able to tighten or swap the speakers without destroying the grille cloth. It will be much easier overall.
Fender Strat w/ 57/62s ---> Ceriatone Princeton w/ Jensen P10R
Well Designed, Well Made tube amp + As little controls as possible = Best Possible tone
Well Designed, Well Made tube amp + As little controls as possible = Best Possible tone
- Bg
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Re: Building a combo amp
if you're just going to use screws, personally I wouldn't, you won't need them that long... about 3/4 depth of wood and speaker frame would be ample.
So, is that low alcohol or no alcohol at all? mmmm, no alcohol, do you want to try it? Noooooooooo.
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- Ashton
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Re: Building a combo amp
All this just over screwing in some speakers haha.BG wrote:if you're just going to use screws, personally I wouldn't, you won't need them that long... about 3/4 depth of wood and speaker frame would be ample.
Shame there's no amp gurus in dunedin.
Fender Strat w/ 57/62s ---> Ceriatone Princeton w/ Jensen P10R
Well Designed, Well Made tube amp + As little controls as possible = Best Possible tone
Well Designed, Well Made tube amp + As little controls as possible = Best Possible tone