NZGuitars.com : Filling you with GAS since 2003

Post spray, start sanding with say 800 grit until it's smooth. Then I go up to 1200 and then 2000. Then I go to 3000 and then 5000. Each sand is easier than the last. Finally, use car polish. The result is a flawless finish. Use wet and dry paper up to 2000, then at Wairau Paint buy two pads for sa...

Spraying is the easy part. Nitro goes on very thin and is touch dry within minutes. Once it's touch dry, spray again. Each time you spray the next layer melts into the old one, and you can opt for giving many light coats rather than trying to nail it in fewer. There's debate over how thick to apply...

murky wrote: ↑Thu May 16, 2024 4:54 pm Wairau Paint Centre will tint nitro and put it in a rattle can. Sit the can in a bowl of warm water before spraying.

What has been your experience with their nitro? What is the end product like?

Wairau Paint Centre will tint nitro and put it in a rattle can. Sit the can in a bowl of warm water before spraying. Fantastic! Do you by chance know what a can goes for? A lot of car paint dealers (LinkUp Paint for eg) will do this. But often, they wont have nitro. I purchase nitro from Versatile ...

If you're in a garage, wait for a sunny day with lower humidity before spraying, unless you can wait until better weather later in the year. This avoids nitro discolouring. I've sprayed nitro in a garage in winter without problems. Thanks for the tip Werdna! I'm not in a rush so can always wait unt...

murky wrote: ↑Thu May 16, 2024 4:54 pm Wairau Paint Centre will tint nitro and put it in a rattle can. Sit the can in a bowl of warm water before spraying.

Fantastic! Do you by chance know what a can goes for?

Heat guns are the best way (don't melt the binding!), but sanding is also good (but labour intensive, messy etc). Acetone will f#ck things up, ultimately. Paint stripper works too, but requires a really good rinse in meths afterwards, which is logistically challenging. Hmmm, when you stain wood, an...

Heat guns work well on LPs and SGs. Vintage LPs did not have stained wood. Only the clear was tinted (cherry for back etc, and the burst colors red, brown etc). I used a dark brown wood filler on my Jnr. Added water to make it squeeze-able! Cheers Grant. I've seen a few people use heat guns but was...

Maple tops don’t need grain filler. I’d sand, in case the acetone melts the binding, or dribbles down onto the sides and back. The maple doesn't, but the mahogany has grain filler from factory. I'm thinking of doing the entire body, not just the top Acetone will almost certainly melt the binding. I...

werdna wrote: ↑Wed May 15, 2024 2:53 pm Maple tops don’t need grain filler.
I’d sand, in case the acetone melts the binding, or dribbles down onto the sides and back.

The maple doesn't, but the mahogany has grain filler from factory. I'm thinking of doing the entire body, not just the top

I'm considering refinishing my LP Standard 50's myself using powdered stains/dyes (either Keda, Briwax, or aniline from somewhere if I can find it), then spraying it in a flash coat of nitro from Timberly Woodturning. I am planning to strip the existing finish using acetone. Will I need to grain fil...

What crowd do you get your nitro from? I have an LP I would to refin with proper thin hard nitro rather than the factory goop it came with I get it from Whangārei/Wairau Paint Centre. They can supply PPG 262 Speedlac. I haven't had a good look through the datasheet to see if they add too many plast...

robthemac wrote: ↑Fri Dec 08, 2023 2:21 pm Respraying a carved top, set neck guitar with binding would take more cajones than I possess.

Haha I don't think I'll do it myself, if I can find someone to do it I will but so far no luck

What crowd do you get your nitro from? I have an LP I would to refin with proper thin hard nitro rather than the factory goop it came with

jeremyb wrote:More pics on the previous page

Those pictures are great thanks! The frets look like jumbo/medium jumbo, is that right? How do you like the Pau ferro?