Lots of build questions...

[Les_Paul86]

Hi team,

Been building a strat project and acquired a nice Wilkinson bridge off a forum member here.
Went to put it in and realised the body is slightly thinner than standard, so the trem block is going to stick out the back of the guitar.
I don’t always put covers on the back but I’m conscious that if I’m touching the block or springs I’ll dampen the sound and stop the resonating.
Has anyone had this? I’m leaning towards just accepting it without a cover. Ive looked at adding washers to the cover plate. Anyone had this before? Is it ok to have the block sticking out? I have another strat it can go in if not.

Also, the new bridge is a 2 point attachement but the body was previously a 6 screw attachment. It’s going to show the old holes which I’m not overly fussed about because it’s a relic body anyway. My concern is getting the alignment right with the neck. Anyone had experience here?

One of the pickups going in is a darmazio HS2 (bridge). I’ve been looking at how to wire it and it looks best to wire as a single coil (ala EJ) but was contemplating a push pull to go between single and humbucker. Has anyone wired one like that before? Was it’s hard? Is it worth it?

Cheers

[Bg]

take the block off the bridge and hacksaw a few mm off it. I've done this before, you may need to drill the spring holes a bit deeper.
I've also redrilled for 2 point wilkinson on a few bodies, alignment shouldn't be an issue. take the block off and mark the holes - the block will be off so you can hacksaw it anyway

[jeremyb]

Squier body perchance?

[Les_Paul86]

take the block off the bridge and hacksaw a few mm off it. I've done this before, you may need to drill the spring holes a bit deeper.
I've also redrilled for 2 point wilkinson on a few bodies, alignment shouldn't be an issue. take the block off and mark the holes - the block will be off so you can hacksaw it anyway

Squier body perchance?

The bridge is a Wilkinson that has those locking thingys in the block. Not sure if I can do that?

[Les_Paul86]

Squier body perchance?

Yup. My first guitar in fact! Must be about 20yrs old.

[Bg]

take the block off the bridge and hacksaw a few mm off it. I've done this before, you may need to drill the spring holes a bit deeper.
I've also redrilled for 2 point wilkinson on a few bodies, alignment shouldn't be an issue. take the block off and mark the holes - the block will be off so you can hacksaw it anyway

Squier body perchance?

The bridge is a Wilkinson that has those locking thingys in the block. Not sure if I can do that?

Got a pic?

[jeremyb]

Squier body perchance?

Yup. My first guitar in fact! Must be about 20yrs old.

that's explains the thinner body, guess they were saving money on wood, not sure if they still do it or not though...

[Les_Paul86]

take the block off the bridge and hacksaw a few mm off it. I've done this before, you may need to drill the spring holes a bit deeper.
I've also redrilled for 2 point wilkinson on a few bodies, alignment shouldn't be an issue. take the block off and mark the holes - the block will be off so you can hacksaw it anyway

Squier body perchance?

The bridge is a Wilkinson that has those locking thingys in the block. Not sure if I can do that?

Got a pic?

I’ve been away a while... how on earth are we uploading photos on this site from a mobile now days?

[AiRdAd]

I've got one of Adrian's strat bodies that was thin as well, I was lucky enough to have a trem with a shorter block on it, so used that one.

Regarding the six holes. They should be covered by the trem shouldn't they?

[AiRdAd]

The one I used was a Wilkinson. It was a tight fit though. I couldn't have a cover on the back and have it floating

[Les_Paul86]

take the block off the bridge and hacksaw a few mm off it. I've done this before, you may need to drill the spring holes a bit deeper.
I've also redrilled for 2 point wilkinson on a few bodies, alignment shouldn't be an issue. take the block off and mark the holes - the block will be off so you can hacksaw it anyway

Squier body perchance?

The bridge is a Wilkinson that has those locking thingys in the block. Not sure if I can do that?

Got a pic?

Think I figure out how to do the photos. The bottom of the block has screws that got down to a ball bearing and another metal bit that pinches the string.

[Bg]

bugger thats different to the two post wilkinsons I've used before... You might be able to hacksaw some of the top of the block where it attaches to the bridge. How much do you need to take off? You might need to chop the screws the same amount

[Les_Paul86]

bugger thats different to the two post wilkinsons I've used before... You might be able to hacksaw some of the top of the block where it attaches to the bridge. How much do you need to take off? You might need to chop the screws the same amount

Unsure how much. Maybe 10mm at most.

Would you not recommend just not having a cover on?

[Bg]

bugger thats different to the two post wilkinsons I've used before... You might be able to hacksaw some of the top of the block where it attaches to the bridge. How much do you need to take off? You might need to chop the screws the same amount

Unsure how much. Maybe 10mm at most.

Would you not recommend just not having a cover on?

[Molly]

bugger thats different to the two post wilkinsons I've used before... You might be able to hacksaw some of the top of the block where it attaches to the bridge. How much do you need to take off? You might need to chop the screws the same amount

Unsure how much. Maybe 10mm at most.

Would you not recommend just not having a cover on?

Leaving the cover off is fine. I think he was just pointing-out that it might not be possible due to a lack of clearance. First thing I do with a Strat is remove the trem cover. Easier to change strings and easy tweaking as req.