Late 70s Strats - thoughs?

[JustMatt]

They sound good so far, but in typical fashion O had it all in peices before I could play with them too much.

Something that has me stumped is the cavity. It seems to have a green shielding paint under the finish. I say shielding because it the ground wire screws into it, which has also been finished over.

Anybody seen inside a late 70s cavity? Does that seem usual?

[Bg]

Anybody seen inside a late 70s cavity? Does that seem usual?

Jb?








sorry but it was inevitable.

[jeremyb]

Anybody seen inside a late 70s cavity? Does that seem usual?

Jb?








sorry but it was inevitable.

Mines an early 70s cavity unfortunately.

[Slowy]

They sound good so far, but in typical fashion O had it all in peices before I could play with them too much.

Something that has me stumped is the cavity. It seems to have a green shielding paint under the finish. I say shielding because it the ground wire screws into it, which has also been finished over.

Anybody seen inside a late 70s cavity? Does that seem usual?

wild guess: Oxidised copper paint?

[JustMatt]

That was my thought, just I have never seen that happen before.

From a bit of research, it looks like 78 / 79 bodies have shielding, and a notch cut out next to the cavity for the ground wire.

My theory is that a batch of lefty bodies and necks were made in 77, and still sitting around through to 79 when this was built. Thus the cavity is true to a 77 model (no notch) but with shielding paint slapped in as an after thought per 78 / 79 spec.

[olegmcnoleg]

That was my thought, just I have never seen that happen before.

From a bit of research, it looks like 78 / 79 bodies have shielding, and a notch cut out next to the cavity for the ground wire.

My theory is that a batch of lefty bodies and necks were made in 77, and still sitting around through to 79 when this was built. Thus the cavity is true to a 77 model (no notch) but with shielding paint slapped in as an after thought per 78 / 79 spec.

I think this is a very plausible explanation.

One other thought...just check that the 2 point trem is sitting on proper sleeved bolts/bridge inserts, not just two screws directly into the body. I mention it because there was a conversion kit for newer bridges that used just 2 wood screws, and they can wear loose.

[JustMatt]

Absolutely.

The conversion here looks clean and professional. I was initially interested in going back to a standard six screw trem, but I might just get some stamped offset saddles and be done with it.

[olegmcnoleg]

Absolutely.

The conversion here looks clean and professional. I was initially interested in going back to a standard six screw trem, but I might just get some stamped offset saddles and be done with it.

If you are going to change it, I'd recommend getting a complete unit, with a decent steel block. Those modern trems have much of the steel mass in the saddles--they are chunkin'. The trem block is thin because it can be. But if you go for thin, vintage saddles, you could use more mass in the block. At least, if you want a vintage-like tone.

I quite like the modern Fender trem. It is good at staying in tune and is a decent compromise, tonally. It does create a different sound to my ears, but not a bad sound.