
Best place to get wood?
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- kwerk
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Re: Best place to get wood?
Chilean laminated pine panel from Bunnings on the left, scandinavian pine from pellets on the right:


- rickenbackerkid
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Re: Best place to get wood?
insane amount of creativity, skill, and passion: everywhere.kwerk wrote:Chilean laminated pine panel from Bunnings on the left, scandinavian pine from pellets on the right:
- jeremyb
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Re: Best place to get wood?
Pine does dent easily tho, is it strong enough for a neck?
How can I be sure I'm here?
The pills that I've been taking confuse me...
The pills that I've been taking confuse me...
Re: Best place to get wood?
No. It's around half the density needed for a neck. Pine can be anywhere from 330 - 515kg/m3, any neck wood should be at least 675-700 kg/m3, preferably higher.jeremyb wrote:Pine does dent easily tho, is it strong enough for a neck?
As for body use, yes it dents easily but you can get around that with a good coat of epoxy. Doesn't make it dent proof, but it goes a long way.
Course the upside of low density is low weight.

- ash
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Re: Best place to get wood?
I must point out that too much fresh TM and timber-yard wood is a bit soggy and could use a year or two of controlled cutting/seasoning (/Ramsay) before use in a guitar. Harsh top-end and dead low-end is a noted consequence.kwerk wrote:Check out trademe for wood, check out slabs if you want to do one piece bodies. Wood is easy to find.Spykerwolf wrote:Where is the best place to get wood from? The only one I know is Fijian Mahogany.
Daza152 wrote:I read that the original 'Broadcaster' Tele. were made from Pine bodies???kwerk wrote:Nothing wrong with pine for a body. There's a rich history of pine bodied guitars.Spykerwolf wrote: I went to placemakers and Mitre 10 but they only had pine unfortunately.
There's nothing wrong with "pine", it was indeed the first thing Leo Fender tried and is making a big comeback amongst tele-cork sniffers in TDPRI-land. But what kind of pine? There are hundreds of different pines and many of them are not pine at all. The pine we find at Placemakers is an actual pine, but not the kind Fender used. Bunya is not a pine, it's closer to kauri and although Australians call that kauri-pine, it's still not one. Kahikatea, rimu and matai are also not pines, despite old-timers calling them white, red and black pine. /pedantic wood geekbbrunskill wrote:My lovely Cole Clark stratocaster is made of Buyna Pine. Sounds like the best Strat you’ve ever heard.
The moral of the story: Ignore the generic marketing names and find out what it really is.
http://ashcustomworks.com for custom built electric guitars hand made in new zealand
- ash
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Re: Best place to get wood?
Density isn't a good indicator of suitability. Korina as low as 450kg/m3 is neck-able and mahogany around 550kg/m3 is widely considered to be tonally excellent. Sure they're not as strong as 700kg/m3 maple, but they work very well when used in an appropriately designed neck. That's a bit of a pointless statement in some ways though, as balsa would work in an appropriately designed neck... one that is mostly carbon fibrekwerk wrote:No. It's around half the density needed for a neck. Pine can be anywhere from 330 - 515kg/m3, any neck wood should be at least 675-700 kg/m3, preferably higher.jeremyb wrote:Pine does dent easily tho, is it strong enough for a neck?
As for body use, yes it dents easily but you can get around that with a good coat of epoxy. Doesn't make it dent proof, but it goes a long way.
Course the upside of low density is low weight.

http://ashcustomworks.com for custom built electric guitars hand made in new zealand
- Slowy
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Re: Best place to get wood?
Agreed. However plenty of sellers describe wood having sat in the shed for 20 years etc. Diligence is still essential when hunting wood.ash wrote:I must point out that too much fresh TM and timber-yard wood is a bit soggy and could use a year or two of controlled cutting/seasoning (/Ramsay) before use in a guitar. Harsh top-end and dead low-end is a noted consequence.kwerk wrote:
Check out trademe for wood, check out slabs if you want to do one piece bodies. Wood is easy to find.
Also agreed. I can pretty much guarantee that Fender have never made a radiata pine guitar. But I'm certainly happy with the one I have, and I know several others have done it without any issues to speak of. I also agree that some of the big stores will not sell wood that is guaranteed dry, so again, a little diligence is required. Recycled timber is another way to guarantee some level of age and stability in timber, especially if you can identify provenance.ash wrote:kwerk wrote:
Nothing wrong with pine for a body. There's a rich history of pine bodied guitars.
There's nothing wrong with "pine", it was indeed the first thing Leo Fender tried and is making a big comeback amongst tele-cork sniffers in TDPRI-land. But what kind of pine? There are hundreds of different pines and many of them are not pine at all. The pine we find at Placemakers is an actual pine, but not the kind Fender used. Bunya is not a pine, it's closer to kauri and although Australians call that kauri-pine, it's still not one. Kahikatea, rimu and matai are also not pines, despite old-timers calling them white, red and black pine. /pedantic wood geek
The moral of the story: Ignore the generic marketing names and find out what it really is.
I disagree that most on the TDPRI are corksniffers. Maybe the diehard Corona/Mike Eldred fanboy buyers, but certainly not the builders. People there will make a tele out of anything that's the right size.
Re: Best place to get wood?
Again, I agree to an extent. I believe density is a good general indicator, but not the absolute final word in whether a given wood is suitable. However, I don't think there would be many woods around 700 - 900kg that would be unsuitable for a neck.ash wrote:Density isn't a good indicator of suitability. Korina as low as 450kg/m3 is neck-able and mahogany around 550kg/m3 is widely considered to be tonally excellent. Sure they're not as strong as 700kg/m3 maple, but they work very well when used in an appropriately designed neck. That's a bit of a pointless statement in some ways though, as balsa would work in an appropriately designed neck... one that is mostly carbon fibrekwerk wrote:No. It's around half the density needed for a neck. Pine can be anywhere from 330 - 515kg/m3, any neck wood should be at least 675-700 kg/m3, preferably higher.jeremyb wrote:Pine does dent easily tho, is it strong enough for a neck?
As for body use, yes it dents easily but you can get around that with a good coat of epoxy. Doesn't make it dent proof, but it goes a long way.
Course the upside of low density is low weight.

PS, I still wouldn't use balsa for a neck though... All CF on the other hand...

- ash
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Re: Best place to get wood?
Yep, you know the oneskwerk wrote: I disagree that most on the TDPRI are corksniffers. Maybe the diehard Corona/Mike Eldred fanboy buyers, but certainly not the builders. People there will make a tele out of anything that's the right size.

http://ashcustomworks.com for custom built electric guitars hand made in new zealand
- Spykerwolf
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Re: Best place to get wood?
Very late post but thanks to everyone who've replied. Definitely given me lots of options - cheers
Re: Best place to get wood?
http://www.citytimber.co.nz/ in wellington have some great options, I by American ash tops and hard rock maple for my necks through them.
If your interested I have a couple of maple neck blanks hanging around
If your interested I have a couple of maple neck blanks hanging around
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- willow13
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Re: Best place to get wood?
if its the same fucking dog that barks down the road from us then I'd rather buy the wood and shoot the fucking muttEdward wrote:
If Less is More Then Just Think How Much More More would be