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Need some advice please.

I am refinishing a guitar in a different colour.

In the process, I'm removing the lacquer and applying a poly clear coat by aerosol. EVH didn't have lacquered guitars and that's good enough for me.

What type of poly clear coat would you recommend?

What type of black stain should I pick up?

werdna wrote: ↑Fri Oct 30, 2020 2:40 pm What type of black stain should I pick up?

One that's blue.

For black stain I've had great results with briwax spirit dyes from bunnings, but why spray when you can finish it off with tru-oil, wipe on thin coats with bits of folded up old t-shirt, its foolproof, leave to dry for 20mins, then buff with synthetic 0000 steel wool, apply next coat then repeat process until you get the finish you want

I got great results with pack and save food colouring and then finishing with briwax teak oil.

Jay wrote: ↑Fri Oct 30, 2020 3:42 pm I got great results with pack and save food colouring and then finishing with briwax teak oil.

Really!!?? Is that where the red came from for your hollow body build? Would be keen to get some pointers on how you ensure even coverage/coats, dilution etc. I'm wanting to dye a guitar, but frankly am a bit scared it'll turn out like a playschool project.

Prefer to avoid the oil/wax route. Looking for a hard mirror finish that is scratch resistant. Tired of my lacquer finish getting worn, yellowed and aged.

werdna wrote: ↑Fri Oct 30, 2020 5:30 pm Tired of my lacquer finish getting worn, yellowed and aged.

But.... Why are the worn, yellowed ones more expensive then?

werdna wrote: ↑Fri Oct 30, 2020 5:30 pm Prefer to avoid the oil/wax route. Looking for a hard mirror finish that is scratch resistant. Tired of my lacquer finish getting worn, yellowed and aged.

Impossible, maybe epoxy???

werdna wrote: ↑Fri Oct 30, 2020 5:30 pm Prefer to avoid the oil/wax route. Looking for a hard mirror finish that is scratch resistant. Tired of my lacquer finish getting worn, yellowed and aged.

Okay, first use a good stain that has some ultra violet blocking properties. Then use a varnish that is used for flooring, ideally with UV blocking properties as well. If you use a water based one, apply it with a cloth, thin layer after thin layer after thin layer after.... you get it ?

IMOCD wrote: ↑Fri Oct 30, 2020 5:07 pm

Jay wrote: ↑Fri Oct 30, 2020 3:42 pm I got great results with pack and save food colouring and then finishing with briwax teak oil.

Really!!?? Is that where the red came from for your hollow body build? Would be keen to get some pointers on how you ensure even coverage/coats, dilution etc. I'm wanting to dye a guitar, but frankly am a bit scared it'll turn out like a playschool project.

Yes, really!

Okay, here you go...

If you haven't done this before, experiment with a test piece first and try to get that looking 'professional'. Stain in increasing concentrations until you feel you have the required stain colour. Make sure you lightly sand with 1200 grit or more after the last staining session. (A few times in between would not hurt either).

Note that the Briwax oil will change the colour appearance, hence the test pieces. I used a high gloss oil which will start showing its gloss after the 3rd coat. The first coat will be absorbed really quickly so you may want to dilute that as per label instructions. Apply with lint free cloth and use vinyl gloves and get plenty of fresh air. The biggest issue I had was that small, airborne pieces of dust fell onto the drying surface. Lightly sand back with 1200 grit after every 3rd coat and before applying the last one. I did 9 coats for my hollow body and the last one should be diluted 50% so that it spreads really easily. (I must admit, I didn't do that but the ambient temperature was such that it did flow really well without drying too quickly).

If you take your time, it will give excellent results. Be aware that some timbers don't accept a stain or oil very well. Another reason for a test piece first. Good luck with your project and update us regularly please

Another consideration, before applying any colour or finish, gently wet the wood down with a sponge and let the fibres rise, sand them back and repeat this process until it doesn't happen

I'm applying black stain.
Sanding back the black stain, so that the dark flames in the maple are black/grey and the light flames are unstained.
Staining turquoise.
Then poly over the top.

I'd guess that I'll follow JB's step above during the turquoise stage, but not the black stain stage.