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Oops!

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2023 8:50 am
by Slowy
Sometimes, I think I'm a monkey with a machine gun :roll:

I changed the valves in Optimus from 6L6 to 6DZ7. So far, so good.
Then in a moment of inspiration I replaced V1 with one of my old Mullard ECC83s

Switch on amp and Mullard explodes. Seriously, broken glass everywhere.
Today's job is to remove amp from chassis and visually check for circuit damage but I suspect I won't find anything.

No smoke or smell was present, the glass just shattered.
No fuses blown.

So what should I do? check there's no visual damage, replace the tube and switch on?
Or not?

Re: Oops!

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2023 9:12 am
by robthemac
Slowy wrote: Mon Feb 06, 2023 8:50 am Sometimes, I think I'm a monkey with a machine gun :roll:

I changed the valves in Optimus from 6L6 to 6DZ7. So far, so good.
Then in a moment of inspiration I replaced V1 with one of my old Mullard ECC83s

Switch on amp and Mullard explodes. Seriously, broken glass everywhere.
Today's job is to remove amp from chassis and visually check for circuit damage but I suspect I won't find anything.

No smoke or smell was present, the glass just shattered.
No fuses blown.

So what should I do? check there's no visual damage, replace the tube and switch on?
Or not?
The preamp tubes should give a shit what's in the power section, right?

Re: Oops!

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2023 9:19 am
by Litterick
Assuming everything was working before you changed the valves, the problem was in the Mullard, not the amp. The Mullard was at V1, so it could not have been affected by the new valves. I would replace it and switch on (but first, I would put some protective material around the new replacement, in case I am wrong).

Re: Oops!

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2023 9:56 am
by Jay
You know the amp's maker. Why not ask him?

Was the replacement EeC83 pin compatible with what was there before?

Happy to check the voltages before you try a new valve

Anyway, one change at the time....
Go back to the 6L6 (after full visual inspection) and original V1. Check amp.
If it goes, you can start experimenting again, but read up on things first.

Re: Oops!

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2023 10:05 am
by Slowy
Jay wrote: Mon Feb 06, 2023 9:56 am You know the amp's maker. Why not ask him?

Was the replacement EeC83 pin compatible with what was there before?

Happy to check the voltages before you try a new valve

Anyway, one change at the time....
Go back to the 6L6 (after full visual inspection) and original V1. Check amp.
If it goes, you can start experimenting again, but read up on things first.
"You know the amp's maker. Why not ask him?"

Sadly Bill lost the circuit diagram. It was stored on an old hard drive. (Haven't you people heard of paper?!!!!!!)
Unlikely to be power tubes. I've switched them in and out several times with no issues; the amp is designed for this. The Mullard is the only new element.
Ah well, what could possibly go wrong........

Re: Oops!

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2023 10:13 am
by sizzlingbadger
Probably a fault in the glass on the Mullard, try another tube, my guess, it will be fine.

Re: Oops!

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2023 10:13 am
by clubhouse
Dunno the specifics of the amp involved but a 6DZ7 is a twin power pentode. The incorporation of two pentode sections in one envelope makes it especially suitable for compact stereo systems. It’s essentially electrically equivalent to two EL84s in a single glass envelope…check substitution validation for the 6L6(G/GT/GB/GC/STR?) beam tetrode power valve.

Didn't even know there were twin pentode, single package valve types! I know of ECL types (triode/pentode combos) but twin pentodes...wow!

If it’s handling the 6DZ7 as a sub, it sounds like a cool as hell build…tres curious…care to share anymore about it, please? Is it substantially louder, compressed or quicker to break-up with a 6DZ7 than a 6L6? Do you change speaker loads to accomodate?

Re: Oops!

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2023 10:30 am
by sizzlingbadger
I'm not too sure the 6DZ7's will work that well as a direct plug-in replacement, depends on the original wiring on the socket I guess. If pin 1 & 5 (grids) are joined together and 3 & 6 (anodes) then it would run both pentodes in parallel, if not then only one pentode would be active.

Re: Oops!

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2023 12:23 pm
by Slowy
sizzlingbadger wrote: Mon Feb 06, 2023 10:30 am I'm not too sure the 6DZ7's will work that well as a direct plug-in replacement, depends on the original wiring on the socket I guess. If pin 1 & 5 (grids) are joined together and 3 & 6 (anodes) then it would run both pentodes in parallel, if not then only one pentode would be active.
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Pretty sure it's fine. :D

Re: Oops!

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2023 12:28 pm
by Slowy
clubhouse wrote: Mon Feb 06, 2023 10:13 am Dunno the specifics of the amp involved but a 6DZ7 is a twin power pentode. The incorporation of two pentode sections in one envelope makes it especially suitable for compact stereo systems. It’s essentially electrically equivalent to two EL84s in a single glass envelope…check substitution validation for the 6L6(G/GT/GB/GC/STR?) beam tetrode power valve.

Didn't even know there were twin pentode, single package valve types! I know of ECL types (triode/pentode combos) but twin pentodes...wow!

If it’s handling the 6DZ7 as a sub, it sounds like a cool as hell build…tres curious…care to share anymore about it, please? Is it substantially louder, compressed or quicker to break-up with a 6DZ7 than a 6L6? Do you change speaker loads to accomodate?
6L6, it sounds Blackface Fenderish with a bit more midrange; pretty tolerant and easy going.
6DZ7s give it much quicker transients. It seems more insistent, less inclined to compromise, snappier.

Re: Oops!

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2023 12:34 pm
by Slowy
As expected, no sign of smoke migration


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Looking inside, a couple of things stood out:

Not many builders protect the Capacitor connections this well.
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And I love the power chord insulation used as spacers!
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Re: Oops!

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2023 12:56 pm
by robthemac
Slowy wrote: Mon Feb 06, 2023 12:34 pm
And I love the power chord insulation used as spacers!

Heh.

Re: Oops!

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2023 1:02 pm
by RectifiedAmps
Wow, it’s hard to imagine a situation where a preamp would be under enough electrical stress to explode. What was in V1 before? If it was an EF86 or some oddball valve, the mismatched pinout could’ve caused this, but just a guess really.

Re: Oops!

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2023 1:08 pm
by Slowy
RectifiedAmps wrote: Mon Feb 06, 2023 1:02 pm Wow, it’s hard to imagine a situation where a preamp would be under enough electrical stress to explode. What was in V1 before? If it was an EF86 or some oddball valve, the mismatched pinout could’ve caused this, but just a guess really.
V1 was a Tung-Sol 12AX7.

Re: Oops!

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2023 1:47 pm
by Slowy
So I should put it all back together and turn it on, yes?