Buffer basics
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- Pakehendrix
- Big Muff
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- meble-kuchenne.warszawa.pl
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Buffer basics
What should I look for in a buffer?
I'm yet to build my pedalboard and sort out the loops etc. but I sense that I will want to get a buffer in there at some point, because I will have a lot of pedals - most not true or buffered bypass (AFAIK). Mainly wanting it for the clean sound; I want to keep it sparkly and nice. However, I don't know much about them, other than that they kinda "restore" the signal in some respects.
Does it sound like I'd need one (I know, I'll judge with my ears etc. etc....) and where should it be in my chain? How much is too much to pay? Too little?
Go.
I'm yet to build my pedalboard and sort out the loops etc. but I sense that I will want to get a buffer in there at some point, because I will have a lot of pedals - most not true or buffered bypass (AFAIK). Mainly wanting it for the clean sound; I want to keep it sparkly and nice. However, I don't know much about them, other than that they kinda "restore" the signal in some respects.
Does it sound like I'd need one (I know, I'll judge with my ears etc. etc....) and where should it be in my chain? How much is too much to pay? Too little?
Go.
- bender
- Darth Fader
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Re: Buffer basics
It definitely helps if you've got lots of pedals. I like the Visual Sound and T-Rex buffered bypass pedals and there are a bunch of others out there that are really good too. I've just got a Baja Black Toast boost pedal (cheers Rocklander) which has a switchable buffer that's pretty nice- it works independently of the pedal and has its own volume knob. The other one that looks cool is the Lovepedal mini one. In really simple terms they kind of boost your signal (not as in level boost) so that you don't have any signal loss over longer cable runs. It's a little bit like your signal retains its robustness rather than getting any louder.
Forgive me if that seems like a pile of waffle- I'm between christmas parties right now
Forgive me if that seems like a pile of waffle- I'm between christmas parties right now
Re: Buffer basics
Few things your may or may not know.
A lot of pedals have buffers as their bypass mode, so you wanna check which of your pedals are buffer bypass first, as they will often have buffers in them that just arn't as good as a dedicated buffer. For example the DD20 you have has a buffer in it.
When combining buffers you want the best one to be first, because your guitar has a really high output impedance compared to most pedals, so you want the biggest input impedance as the first load in the chain, so as to not loose any highs. A common value for the higher end dedicated buffers is 5meg ohms.
However if your using only true bypass pedals (or keeping the buffered pedals in a switchable loop) then it shouldn't matter much where in the chain (start or end) the buffer is, as long as it's the first load.
If your going down the fully switchable loops where you can take all your pedals out of the chain you may find you don't need a buffer due to the shorter cable length.
As always decent cable and connecters can cut down on the signal loss (and the need for a buffer).
You've just reminded me I need to get back to Rocklander about a black toast, which is probably a pretty good way to go (you can also test the effect of a buffer in your rig with the switch on it.) And I'm gonna sell my Boost n' Buff which is probably a bit too expensive for what it is. If you or Rocklander make a black toast for your board it should come in under 100 bucks (check with Rocklander on the prices as they change)
A lot of pedals have buffers as their bypass mode, so you wanna check which of your pedals are buffer bypass first, as they will often have buffers in them that just arn't as good as a dedicated buffer. For example the DD20 you have has a buffer in it.
When combining buffers you want the best one to be first, because your guitar has a really high output impedance compared to most pedals, so you want the biggest input impedance as the first load in the chain, so as to not loose any highs. A common value for the higher end dedicated buffers is 5meg ohms.
However if your using only true bypass pedals (or keeping the buffered pedals in a switchable loop) then it shouldn't matter much where in the chain (start or end) the buffer is, as long as it's the first load.
If your going down the fully switchable loops where you can take all your pedals out of the chain you may find you don't need a buffer due to the shorter cable length.
As always decent cable and connecters can cut down on the signal loss (and the need for a buffer).
You've just reminded me I need to get back to Rocklander about a black toast, which is probably a pretty good way to go (you can also test the effect of a buffer in your rig with the switch on it.) And I'm gonna sell my Boost n' Buff which is probably a bit too expensive for what it is. If you or Rocklander make a black toast for your board it should come in under 100 bucks (check with Rocklander on the prices as they change)
Ok I got rid of my Foal quote, but I found a new one.
foal30 wrote:some 80's metal makes me want to dress up like a woman, just like they did back in the day.
is this sort of what you mean?
- Jenesis
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Re: Buffer basics
I'm in the fiddly position where I have a couple of dirt pedals that sound like shit if they are fed a buffered signal, so I don't really worry about buffers. If I've got a big chain going, I just switch in a little bit of clean boost to blast through the signal which seems to restore a little bit of lost treble/clarity. If I notice it missing in the first place.
And if you've got at least one pedal in your chain engaged at all times, it acts as a buffer anyway. I think.
And if you've got at least one pedal in your chain engaged at all times, it acts as a buffer anyway. I think.
- Jenesis
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Re: Buffer basics
The AB-Synth sounds thinner and loses some craziness after a buffer, the Teaser Stallion loses heaps of its oscillation capabilities as well (putts out at about halfway on the dial instead of going to max).
I just run true bypass pedals in front of them and all is well.
I just run true bypass pedals in front of them and all is well.
- rickenbackerkid
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Re: Buffer basics
I have a Barber LTD which is a bright and sparkly OD on it own. With a buffer in front it gets a wee bit harsh sounding. So I run a buffer in the centre and another at the end to push the sound on to the amp.
- bender
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Re: Buffer basics
Interesting. Two out of my three dirt pedals are buffered bypass. I might have to mess around with the order and see if there's any difference.
Re: Buffer basics
I'd never had any experience with buffers changing the tone until I got a Matamp Minimat this year.
If I go directly from the guitar into the high input it's very muddy, but if I go through my Boss tuner first the tone is very bright and clear.
If I go directly from the guitar into the high input it's very muddy, but if I go through my Boss tuner first the tone is very bright and clear.
- handsoffmatt
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Re: Buffer basics
In these days of boutique-ism, people often forget how good the BOSS buffer design really is!
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- Hot_Grits
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Re: Buffer basics
Yeah, that's totally true. However I was interested to note how much difference in the bypassed sound there was between the DD7 and DD20 when I A/B'd them. I guess that's a function of more junk in the trunk.NZRS_Matt wrote:In these days of boutique-ism, people often forget how good the BOSS buffer design really is!
I run a buffered pedal at the start of my chain and two at the end. The front pedal (digitech synth wah) really helps keep the high end, without it in place my board can be a bit woolly into my tweed amp, where any loss of high end is not desired. It's not such an issue with my other amps.
jeremyb wrote: Is it true about the bum sex before marriage thing being ok?
Re: Buffer basics
For a pedal commonly accused of being a tone sucker, it certainly gives my tone a good blow!NZRS_Matt wrote:In these days of boutique-ism, people often forget how good the BOSS buffer design really is!