Custom gat stuff... afew questions

[rob_on_guitar]

OK, at the moment Im looking getting a custom gat done next year as my fave guitar is no longer made and hasnt been made for some time. So basically i want the same body shape which is fine, but now i have the option of having the vol/tone knobs and pup switch anywhere i like.
I do use the switch alot too so I would need it handy (especially during solos) but not in the way. Currently Im thinking as they are in the photo is cool but the switch I find often hard to get to in a timely manner, but i want to swap the bottom tone with the switch....

Anybody had that sort of config?

Yea the pic is old and from a dodgey looking position lol

[rocklander]

I do know (from a strumming rhythm guitarist POV) that the one on my LP shape tokai was a pain cos I was forever knocking it in the strum, but I've rotated it 90º now so if I knock it, only my hand suffers rather than the sound

[rob_on_guitar]

Yea, thats what Im thinking, I dont strum much, just chuga chuga most of the time, alot of picking and fretboard wankery, I play certain leads on different pups and even my rythmns are all over the place.

think I got it sorted...
Thanks Hollowpoint

[rob_on_guitar]

Ok, my next question(s) is about the neck.

What are the differences between the different woods for durability/playabilty?

and the fretboard radius is the other Im kind of unsure about, Im looking at 24 frets if that helps.

Cheers in advance

[Cdog]

cue ash? lol
Look at the design you liked, what wood and radius did it have? Radius is the curvature of the fretboard I know that much... lower radius = more curve = good for bends etc. Some shredders have flat fretboards, some guitars have a compound radius which changes along the neck. Radius is measured in inches usually, from an imaginary cylinder with a radius of whatever, where the fretboard was cut from the edge of the cylinder. Cor, does that make sense?

[rob_on_guitar]

Kinda made sense... the thing is I cant find any info on my guitar that Im taking most of the neck specs off.
Even Takamine couldnt or wouldnt help with specs.
Maybe once Ive finished doing as much as i can I should just bring the guitar in and say 'This is what i want, but different'

[ash]

Ok, my next question(s) is about the neck.

What are the differences between the different woods for durability/playabilty?

and the fretboard radius is the other Im kind of unsure about, Im looking at 24 frets if that helps.

Cheers in advance

Fretboard radius:

Lower number = more curved = bad for bends, good for barre chords, more comfortable for many people
Higher number = flatter fretboard = good for big bends up high, can get the action lower before fretting out, barre chords need more pressure and better technique, some guys find it cramp inducing.

Compund radius = more curved at the nut end, flatter at the body end. Best of both worlds.

Your JEM555 will be a flatter radius, the Ibanez website will have a number. I imagine your Takamine is around 12", right in the middle of the usual range.

Neck wood:
Are you talking about the fretboard or the neck itself?

If durability and playability are your only criteria then ebony is the leader. Tonally it isn't necessarily your winner though. Rosewood is more popular when tonal considerations dominate. Rosewood is also more stable.

If you mean the rest of the neck, having the headstock not fall off is cool. Maple and other similarly hard wood win here, mahogany loses. Stability is handy too, mahogany wins and maple loses. There are lots of other woods in the hunt too, though. Most people end up choosing on looks, to be fair. Looks and having read about it in magazines and websites.

[rob_on_guitar]

Thanks for that Ash, yup, rosewood for the fretboard, the actual neck wood is where Im stumped, some of my friends say its quite important to choose the right one, but personally i wouldnt know the difference i dont think.

The radius part Im guessing would be standard, although others say my fretboard is a bit wide for them.
Must be just personal preference. Ive been working off your quote sheet to try get my guitar pretty much how I want so thats been an awesome help!

[Cdog]

Ok, my next question(s) is about the neck.

What are the differences between the different woods for durability/playabilty?

and the fretboard radius is the other Im kind of unsure about, Im looking at 24 frets if that helps.

Cheers in advance

Fretboard radius:

Lower number = more curved = bad for bends, good for barre chords, more comfortable for many people
Higher number = flatter fretboard = good for big bends up high, can get the action lower before fretting out, barre chords need more pressure and better technique, some guys find it cramp inducing.

Compund radius = more curved at the nut end, flatter at the body end. Best of both worlds.

Your JEM555 will be a flatter radius, the Ibanez website will have a number. I imagine your Takamine is around 12", right in the middle of the usual range.

Neck wood:
Are you talking about the fretboard or the neck itself?

If durability and playability are your only criteria then ebony is the leader. Tonally it isn't necessarily your winner though. Rosewood is more popular when tonal considerations dominate. Rosewood is also more stable.

If you mean the rest of the neck, having the headstock not fall off is cool. Maple and other similarly hard wood win here, mahogany loses. Stability is handy too, mahogany wins and maple loses. There are lots of other woods in the hunt too, though. Most people end up choosing on looks, to be fair. Looks and having read about it in magazines and websites.

Lol. Yup knew I should'nt have said anything... I was WRONG!!!

[rob_on_guitar]

Its all good man, i appreciate the help/effort

[stevevai1983]

If durability and playability are your only criteria then ebony is the leader.

why is that? ebony has better playability than rosewood or maple?
what is the difference?

[ash]

If durability and playability are your only criteria then ebony is the leader.

why is that? ebony has better playability than rosewood or maple?
what is the difference?

Ebony is much harder than the others, less porous than rosewood and can be polished to a smoother surface.
Most players can't tell or don't care, but those who do usually prefer the smoother feel of ebony to rosewood or lacquered maple.

[rob_on_guitar]

As mine will mostly be for recording and comfort/feel I already have a certain idea in mind, but going through the list is real helpful (on ash's site, the quote list really makes you learn more), I didnt realise there was freedom for alot of things so ive done slight adjustments but nothing outrageous.