Bg wrote:Jvpp, quick question... What did you do about relief?
I did a huge post this morning about this - but can't have sent it. When Adrian did my one, he said you leave fret leveling etc to last, and then set the relief with the fret levels. Depending on the resistance of the Kwila, you might have pick one string gauge and stick with that.
Makes sense. I pretty much stick with 10s anyway.
So, is that low alcohol or no alcohol at all? mmmm, no alcohol, do you want to try it? Noooooooooo.
Ok, lunch hour spent with the old trusty black & decker jigsaw.
Don't worry thats not blood, was just trying a couple of different finish options Was going to weigh it but it turns out my kitchen scale batteries have gone, I bet the missus borrowed them again...
So, is that low alcohol or no alcohol at all? mmmm, no alcohol, do you want to try it? Noooooooooo.
I played that guitar with the kwila neck. He had a few more of them too in his pile of bits. It was awesome honestly, it rang like a motherfucker but kwila is absurdly strong and dense so no real surprise. It's massively open-grained though so you might like to think about filling it. I don't care myself (I have a 5 piece neck of mahogany/purpleheart/kwila) but FYI.
I've got a vitex neck here too which was an absolute revelation. That stuff is fantastic, cheap, sustainable, beautiful to look at and works really well.
Here's a flamed vitex fingerboard on one of my gats. It's well worth your consideration as a tonewood.
Bg wrote:Jvpp, quick question... What did you do about relief?
Danny already answered this one... but...
I made sure the neck and fretboard were deadstraight before inserting the frets. I also made sure that the fret tang width was only fractional smaller than the saw cuts so setting the frets would not back bend the neck (in a cumulative fashion).
Then I strung with 10's and tried it out. I found that by adjusting the saddles I could get the action such that it was not buzzing and still have lowish action at 12th fret. As I had (hand) pressed the frets in, there was no damage to the fret crowns and I did not even had to level them, etc. First time lucky effect or so.
Blimmin nice piece of timber there!
When faced with quality, I recognise it every time.
NippleWrestler wrote:I played that guitar with the kwila neck. He had a few more of them too in his pile of bits. It was awesome honestly, it rang like a motherfucker but kwila is absurdly strong and dense so no real surprise. It's massively open-grained though so you might like to think about filling it. I don't care myself (I have a 5 piece neck of mahogany/purpleheart/kwila) but FYI.
I've got a vitex neck here too which was an absolute revelation. That stuff is fantastic, cheap, sustainable, beautiful to look at and works really well.
Here's a flamed vitex fingerboard on one of my gats. It's well worth your consideration as a tonewood.
damn that is hot! as for grain, I'm quite happy to leave any oiled timber open. I think if you're going to plonk 5mm of poly on it or a good coat of nitro, yeah but otherwise you're covering the toan. Fenders used to be grainfilled with poly then sprayed with nitro, how's them apples? ok they called it fullerplast
So, is that low alcohol or no alcohol at all? mmmm, no alcohol, do you want to try it? Noooooooooo.
Bg wrote:Jvpp, quick question... What did you do about relief?
Danny already answered this one... but...
I made sure the neck and fretboard were deadstraight before inserting the frets. I also made sure that the fret tang width was only fractional smaller than the saw cuts so setting the frets would not back bend the neck (in a cumulative fashion).
Then I strung with 10's and tried it out. I found that by adjusting the saddles I could get the action such that it was not buzzing and still have lowish action at 12th fret. As I had (hand) pressed the frets in, there was no damage to the fret crowns and I did not even had to level them, etc. First time lucky effect or so.
Blimmin nice piece of timber there!
cheers dude. I think it'll pop out nicely once its oiled. Maybe I should use a soft face mallet on my frets this time, instead of a 10lb club hammer
I also apologise unreservedly about previous comments I made about the use of superglue on frets. I refretted a neck recently and they just kept popping, so yeah- I popped out the CA and gave them a liberal coating. How the mighty fall.
So, is that low alcohol or no alcohol at all? mmmm, no alcohol, do you want to try it? Noooooooooo.
I've gone a bit further, but tbh, its friday and theres red wine, and red wine mixed with routers is not good.
My usual method is to not bother with a template. just get somewhere close to the line with the sander in the drill press, and rasp. The top usually has the pencilled pattern on it. So as long as I don't sand/rasp at an angle, I'll get close.
As an apprentice, the importance of filing level was bashed into me. Usually my rasping and sanding is close enough. I'll do a final pass on the router bench just to check and even up.
I don't want to make a template for a couple of reasons, I suffer an allergic reaction from mdf. I hate making templates. This is likely to be my only ever tele build. ever. The last template I made for a strat absorbed moisture in my workshop and is now worthless.
So, is that low alcohol or no alcohol at all? mmmm, no alcohol, do you want to try it? Noooooooooo.
Bg wrote:I've gone a bit further, but tbh, its friday and theres red wine, and red wine mixed with routers is not good.
My usual method is to not bother with a template. just get somewhere close to the line with the sander in the drill press, and rasp. The top usually has the pencilled pattern on it. So as long as I don't sand/rasp at an angle, I'll get close.
As an apprentice, the importance of filing level was bashed into me. Usually my rasping and sanding is close enough. I'll do a final pass on the router bench just to check and even up.
I don't want to make a template for a couple of reasons, I suffer an allergic reaction from mdf. I hate making templates. This is likely to be my only ever tele build. ever. The last template I made for a strat absorbed moisture in my workshop and is now worthless.
You can borrow my neck template if you want, and also the body one, but that appears to be too late?
When faced with quality, I recognise it every time.
yep I'm almost at the line thanks for the offer though. I'll do templates for the cutouts, but can anyone ever agree on the thickness of a tele let alone the actual shape? If it hits ballpark and looks like a tele, then it is one
So, is that low alcohol or no alcohol at all? mmmm, no alcohol, do you want to try it? Noooooooooo.
yeah,its got a normal arse! I took it in direct sunlight on my phone, so I had to guess what it looked like Started to shape to proper size but then started on red wines and routers and them don't mix lol.... so I chilled out after that
So, is that low alcohol or no alcohol at all? mmmm, no alcohol, do you want to try it? Noooooooooo.