Building an archtop of some sorts

[Bg]

Yes, i have used both quite a bit on certain sections of the top... the scraper quickly removes the chisel dimples/uneveness and leaves a surface rady for sanding. Great tool!

The problem I have with the plane, even on the smallest blade protrusion, is that it cannot handle the sections on the top where the grain 'doesn't behave'. Great for sections where the grain is cooperating so to speak. Maybe it is because of the macrocarpa (it being a softwood) that makes using the thumb planer difficult. On this top I had much better control with a rasor sharp chisel which allowed my to take tiny cuts out in the grain induced difficult areas.

So to avoid having to carve for the next month or so, I decided to make the concave/convex transition narrow.

As the inside carving won't be that critical from a visual point of view, I intend to practice and use the planer a bit more as it is indeed a neat little tool.


Anyone any feedback on the neck question I asked?

Thats looking really good! I much prefer a scraper, comes from my furniture building days Glad you liked the flap wheel approach. I've done some rad carving with one. I still have a parker body in korina on the workbench, most of that done with the flapwheel

[Bg]

This might be a bit late, but you can buy a special carving disc to fit angle grinders. I can't remember where they are sold though.

yep you're late, thoroughly 'discussted'

[Jay]

Cool stuff.

The neck pocket - how deep will it be? Or is that finished depth?

Although it will be an archtop, I intend to glue the neck in like an LP. So the planed section you see with the pencil mark will have a U shaped bit cut out. A bit like the two pics below; The top is 20mm, the bottom is 10mm and the body will be 30mm deep, so the tenon will be about 40-43mm high (it slopes) and the length yet to be determined.

FYI, the current length from neck pocket to end of neck bit is 113mm, if I cut it at the pencil line, 65mm will be remaining.

So the question is, if I cut off the neck bit at the pencil mark will I have enough 'structure' left for a solid LP type fitting.

[StrummersOfThunder]

What's up with the 100% convex arch? Didn't want to transition from concave ? Won't itlook like someone has pumped up a gretsch with a bike pump?! Or is this a recognized thing? Educate me !!

[willow13]

So the question is, if I cut off the neck bit at the pencil mark will I have enough 'structure' left for a solid LP type fitting.

its called strong glue

[Bg]

Cool stuff.

The neck pocket - how deep will it be? Or is that finished depth?

Although it will be an archtop, I intend to glue the neck in like an LP. So the planed section you see with the pencil mark will have a U shaped bit cut out. A bit like the two pics below; The top is 20mm, the bottom is 10mm and the body will be 30mm deep, so the tenon will be about 40-43mm high (it slopes) and the length yet to be determined.

FYI, the current length from neck pocket to end of neck bit is 113mm, if I cut it at the pencil line, 65mm will be remaining.


So the question is, if I cut off the neck bit at the pencil mark will I have enough 'structure' left for a solid LP type fitting.

Don't see why not, they do the shorter neck tenons too. haven't heard any of them snapping off?

[GrantB]

I agree - as long as the pocket is deep enough and the length doesn't go any shorter than what is drawn, it should be OK. In saying that, if it goes horribly wrong, Bg and I can delete any text here that has us saying anything at all....and in fact, make it look like we warned you against such a thing.

[Jay]

What's up with the 100% convex arch? Didn't want to transition from concave ? Won't itlook like someone has pumped up a gretsch with a bike pump?! Or is this a recognized thing? Educate me !!

You never heard of a balloon shaped carved archtop? Really? It much better supports internal soundwaves bouncing off the top and exiting in an amplified fashion through the F holes. It is a well known fact

Look it up mate!

[Jay]

I agree - as long as the pocket is deep enough and the length doesn't go any shorter than what is drawn, it should be OK. In saying that, if it goes horribly wrong, Bg and I can delete any text here that has us saying anything at all....and in fact, make it look like we warned you against such a thing.

I have taken a snapshot and filed it.

I think I'll extend the tenon to the other end of the body

[Bg]

I agree - as long as the pocket is deep enough and the length doesn't go any shorter than what is drawn, it should be OK. In saying that, if it goes horribly wrong, Bg and I can delete any text here that has us saying anything at all....and in fact, make it look like we warned you against such a thing.

I have taken a snapshot and filed it.

I think I'll extend the tenon to the other end of the body

photoshop trickery!

[Jay]

As Mr Strummers so eloquently observed there was not enough 'concave arch' for the Bigsby to sit properly on the top...
So spent a good part of the afternoon carving with the thumb planer. In fact all of it was done with it. I finally got the hang of it

This is how it looks now. Just the horns remaining.

[H671]

That thumb plane is a little ripper

[Lostininverness]

How's the blister from the plane?

[bender]

Yes! Looks much better.

[Jay]

That thumb plane is a little ripper

Indeed, but it rips gently once you get the hang of it. I had to back it right off.

Post by Lostininverness » Tue Nov 29, 2016 8:17 pm
How's the blister from the plane?

I got the blister from the chisel. The thumb plane is fine.

Post by bender » Tue Nov 29, 2016 8:59 pm
Yes! Looks much better.

Yes, but still not satisfied so took more off today. I now know why moulding/copy routers exist. It would be so good to have one...

Tried to change the brightness and contrast to bring things out but I need a course from SB for that. All the pencil marks are dimples that need sanding out.

I am slowly getting enough of this, ie, about the amount of work involved.


Looks like the skin of someone with a really bad skin disease